Getting Started with Garmin Live Scope

Getting Started with LiveScope: From Setup to Reading Fish

LiveScope has completely changed the way many anglers approach fishing. What was once guesswork; locating fish, understanding their behaviour, and presenting a lure effectively can now be seen in real time. But like any piece of technology, getting the most out of it comes down to how well it’s set up and how well you understand what you’re looking at.

The first step to success with LiveScope starts before you even hit the water. A clean, well-thought-out boat setup makes a huge difference to the clarity and usability of your system. While many anglers opt to mount the transducer to their electric motor, giving them the ability to scan wherever the motor is pointed, most others in Australia are now moving toward independent pole mounts. These allow you to control the direction of the beam separately from the boat, which is particularly valuable when you want to stay locked onto fish or structure without constantly repositioning. It’s a simple upgrade that can dramatically improve your efficiency, especially when targeting specific fish.

Screen size and placement are just as important. A larger display ideally in the 10 to 12-inch range makes it far easier to interpret what you’re seeing, particularly when tracking subtle movements or smaller fish. Garmin now offers the Echomap range up to a 16" screen which is a good value for money option. Positioning the screen where it’s easily visible while casting is key, as LiveScope is most effective when you can glance up and make immediate adjustments. Power supply is another often overlooked factor. Running your electronics off a dedicated battery, preferably lithium, helps deliver consistent, clean power and avoids interference that can affect image quality. It also means you aren't draining your engine starter battery; a flat battery is a surefire way to ruin a good day fishing!

Once you’re set up properly, understanding the different LiveScope modes is the next step. Forward mode is where most Aussie anglers spend their time, projecting a live image out in front of the boat and allowing you to scan for fish and structure before making a cast. Down mode shifts that view directly beneath the boat and is particularly useful for vertical jigging, while Perspective mode offers a wider, shallower view that comes into its own when fishing flats or covering large areas of water especially for barramundi and mulloway. Each has its place, and learning when to use them will help you get far more out of the system.

Getting your settings right is where LiveScope really starts to come alive. While the factory presets are a decent starting point, fine-tuning your range, gain and filtering is essential. Keeping your range realistic, often somewhere around 20 to 30 metres, helps maintain detail and clarity. Pushing it too far can make everything look washed out and harder to interpret. Gain controls how much information is displayed; too high and the screen becomes cluttered with noise, too low and you risk missing fish altogether. The goal is to find a balance where fish stand out clearly without excessive background interference. Small adjustments, made regularly as conditions change, will make a big difference.

Learning to read LiveScope is where the real advantage lies, and it does take time. Fish generally appear as bright, moving returns, with larger fish showing more solid and defined marks. The key difference between fish and structure is movement - timber, rock and weed will remain static, while fish will shift, rise, or react. Your lure will also show on screen, often as a small moving dot or streak, and this is where things get interesting. Watching how fish respond to your lure in real time gives you immediate feedback, allowing you to change retrieve speed, angle or even lure choice on the spot.

Understanding fish behaviour through LiveScope is what separates good users from great ones. Active fish will move quickly and often rise to intercept a lure, while neutral fish may follow without committing. Shut-down fish tend to hold tight to structure or the bottom, showing very little interest. Being able to see these behaviours unfold allows you to adapt instantly by slowing things down, changing presentation, or moving on when fish simply aren’t in the mood.

Like any tool, LiveScope comes with a learning curve. Early on, it’s easy to get caught up chasing every mark on the screen or over-adjusting settings. Spending time in shallow, clear water can help fast-track the learning process, as it allows you to visually confirm what you’re seeing on the screen. Over time, interpreting the display becomes second nature, and you’ll find yourself making more confident, informed decisions on the water.

Ultimately, LiveScope is about efficiency and understanding. It doesn’t just help you find fish as it helps you understand why they’re there and how they’re behaving. Once it clicks, it opens up an entirely new way of fishing, turning what was once guesswork into a far more calculated and rewarding experience.

Here at Richardson Marine & the Tackle Shack, we have been Garmin dealers for 15 years and have witnessed the evolution of Live Scope from early Panoptix up to the recent release of the GT360 and spy pole.

Our recommended Live Scope and electric motor setups:

Beginner/Budget: Garmin Echomap UHD2 95SV (bare minimum recommended size), Berleypro Visor, Garmin Live Scope Plus, Railblaza pole.

2026 RRP: $5457

Intermediate: Garmin Echomap Ultra 12", Berleypro Visor, RAM Horizontal Mount, Garmin Live Scope Plus, Garmin Livescope Bulkhead fitting & extension cable (easy removal), Gaffman pole.

2026 RRP: $8326

Expert (no budget!): Twin Garmin 8416s, Garmin Live Scope Plus, Berleypro Visors, dual screen mounts, Garmin LiveScope Bulkhead Fittings & extension cables, Garmin GT360, Garmin Spy Pole.

If these systems are of interest to you, or you want a chat about getting your boat set up; give us a call or email and we're more than happy to help!